According to the University of California Integrated Pest Management for Tomatoes, publication #3274, 'Most agricultural soils in California contain enough nutrients to produce a tomato crop. NUTRITIONAL PROBLEMS are few unless there is a soil deficiency in one or more nutrients. Northeastern seed companies carry these varieties. Some of these varieties do not do well in our area unless planted early (Jan/Feb) under row-covers and harvested before summer heat sets in. Maturity dates from transplants are from 58 - 65 days. Many of the early determinate varieties were developed in Idaho and Canada for cool, short growing seasons. Early Determinate varieties are adversely affected by any check in growth and should not be started too early. Mulch also helps keep the fruit and leaves dry and clean. When fruit begins to set, place mulch under the plants to keep the soil from drying out too rapidly. Do not set unprotected plants out until night temperatures are above 45 degrees F. After planting, water plants in with a high phosphate fertilizer solution or a seaweed extract solution.įor earliest plantings, set plants out under floating row-covers. Transplant into deeply dug soil, 18 - 24 inches apart for determinate varieties, 24 - 36 inches apart for indeterminate caged plants. Use diluted fish emulsion or a water-soluble complete fertilizer if the leaves begin to look purple or yellowish. Water plants only enough to keep soil from drying out. From this point until setting out in the garden, 60 - 70 degrees F. When true leaves develop and seedlings are about 1 1/2 inches tall, transplant into a 4 inch or larger container to produce large stocky transplants. Fluorescent lights are best, two inches from the plant tops and turned on for 14 - 16 hours per day. As soon as seedlings emerge, place them in a well-lit area at 60 - 70 degrees F. If possible, keep soil temperature between 75 and 80 degrees F. Tomato seed germinates very slowly in cool soil. Example: If you usually set out your tomato plants on April 15, start seed the first week in mid-February or March. Sow seed in containers six to eight weeks before plants are to be set out in the garden. Tie the cage to 2 or 3 stakes driven into the ground alongside the cage. Plants can grow above the top of a six-foot cage by several feet. These large plants are less susceptible to leaf diseases such as Alternaria Blight due to the higher foliage to fruit ratio.įor best results in supporting Indeterminate plants, use concrete reinforcing wire to make large cages.

Most of the fruit will become sunburned without leaf cover. If grown without support, the plants will sprawl and take up a great deal of space. Indeterminate varieties continue to vine even after fruit set and will continue to set fruit until killed by frost or disease. Vigorous determinates have larger vines and less concentrated ripening and need some support in the garden. Taxi or Tumbler Hybrid) have a concentrated early ripening and are good for container planting. Varieties with only one leaf between flower clusters are called Compact Determinate, whereas those with about 2 leaves between the fruit clusters are called Vigorous Determinate (e.g. The plant makes only moderate vine growth after the fruit forms, making it possible to harvest the fruit in a single picking. INDETERMINATE (climbing)Ī tomato variety is determinate if the vine terminates in a flower cluster. Low light intensity and smog also limit fruit set.ĭETERMINATE (bush) vs. In many varieties, fruit will fail to set when daytime temperatures exceed 90 degrees F. The blossoms will drop off after several days in which temperatures fall below 55 degrees F. The plant is temperature sensitive not only to frost but to high temperatures as well. Heirloom, open-pollinated geographical selections.Plant size, leaf shape and multiple disease resistance.Because of genetic manipulation and natural selection there is a large range of tomato characteristics.

Best blight resistant tomatoes